Lake Argyle

24 May
After saying farewell to Edith Falls and the enjoyable time we spent there we made tracks for Lake Argyle - the largest man made lake in the Southern Hemisphere. We stopped at Victoria River for lunch (a town that consists entirely of a roadhouse with a motel attached) and continued on to Durack Homestead - the original stone house that was owned by Durack family that owned much of the land that was flooded when the Ord River was dammed to form Lake Argyle. Declan said it looked like new as they had recently painted inside.

Durack Homestead

The house was pulled apart stone by stone, numbered and put into 44 gallon drums, then transported to its current location. The family waited for some time before funding came through to turn it into a museum by which time the numbers had washed off the stones. The house was then rebuilt using the same stone in an order as near as possible to the existing house. The house contains much information about the way the family lived and some of the equipment and tools they used.

Lake Argyle from caravan park swimming pool

Our campsite for the night was the Lake Argyle caravan park which has an amazing  view from their wet edge swimming pool (which was so cold even Declan didn't go for a swim). The lake itself has had a remarkable effect on the wildlife with some of the animals on the endangered list being struck off since the lake was built (it also provides hydro-electricity).
Tim and Declan rose early the next morning to go fishing as we were still on NT time. So they were up at 5.30 and Tom and I got to sleep in (till 6.00!) Turns out we were a little early packing the sleeping bags away, being a bit further south it was cold at night (about 12 degrees).
Once again Tom and I packed the tent and waited for the fishermen to return. A nice gentleman suggested I should be rewarded for packing by being bought a diamond in Kununurra, Tim didn't agree.  I don't know why, pink diamonds were only start at $10,000!

The Bungle Bungles

25 May

Declan and I (Tim) woke up early to go fishing and (surprise surprise) we didn't catch anything before we returned to camp to find Linda and Tom well under way with packing up. Once finished we were on the road making tracks for the Purnululu National Park which contains the Bungle Bungles. After stocking up in Kununurra on the way (and Linda browsing the diamonds from a shop that are sourced from the local Argyle Diamond Mine) we made good time to the turnoff to our campsite for the night. From there the GPS told us that we only had 59km to go. After seeing a sign that told us to let our tyre pressure down to protect them we knew it was going to be a slow trip in. With quite a few creek crossings, mud, rocks and plenty of corrugations we finally finished the final 59km in two and a half hours – just as the sun was setting. This was not the best time to arrive at bush camping. Every site was taken and we had to squeeze between two groups (we weren't about to trek out and find somewhere else to camp). It didn't help when the boys started fighting and we were given long looks by our neighbours. After fights were settled we have become very routine and everyone knows what needs to be done to set up. This meant we we sitting down to a lovely dinner of butterflied lamb and veg with the hour. A great meal finished with a glass of port in a fantastic setting!

26 May 

We had planned to have a big day of hiking this morning but found out that a couple of the walks in the north of the park were still not open because of the amount of water still in the area.

While checking the health of our car batteries I discovered the remnants of our air conditioning belt and so spent the next hour under the bonnet replacing it with a spare that we had bought with us. Turns out our neighbours were very friendly people and even came over and gave us a hand. One of them was a pilot and had been flying tours through the area for years and had much information to share.

Finally underway we headed off to the Visitors Centre and then on to Kungkalahayi Lookout in the northern section of the park. The 360 degree views to the 500 million year old orange limestone cliff faces of the western escarpment of the Bungle Bungle Range were lovely but we were really interested in seeing the Bungle Bungles up close.

Kungkalahayi Lookout

After a 30 minute drive we were confronted with an amazing view from the carpark but the best was yet to come. We decided to do three walks in one hike which took around two and a half hours. The three walks were: The Dome Walk, Cathedral Gorge, and Piccaninny Creek Lookout.

The Dome Walk - Bungle Bungles

The Dome Walk took us past and around beautiful sandstone domes that rise out of the surrounding plains. It was only a short walk but whet our appetite for the sites to come.

The Cathedral Gorge Walk has now taken over from Kings Canyon as my favourite attraction on this trip. The whole walk is amazing with postcard-like scenery everywhere but finishes with a breath-taking amphitheatre that has to be seen to be believed. The colour and size of the gorge is fantastic and both Thomas and Declan loved the acoustics.

Cathedral Gorge Amphitheatre - Bungle Bungles

Cathedral Gorge - Bungle Bungles

Piccaninny Creek Lookout

We stayed in Cathedral Gorge for quite some time just taking in the serenity (punctuated regularly by the boys testing the acoustics and the shutter on my camera working overtime, Linda was speechless) before trecking out to the Piccaninny Creek Lookout. This is the longest of the walks with once again picturesque scenery everywhere. On arrival at the lookout the views over Picaninny Creek were amazing and I find myself running out of descriptive words for this beautiful area. 
Unfortunately the northern area of the park was closed due to flooding. So much water it has apparently destroyed much of the area and they are considering pumping the water out. It is not expected to be open till September or October - even then it will be the beginning of the next wet.

Piccaninny Creek Lookout

Kakadu National Park (cont.) and Edith Falls

22 May

Gunlom

Today we left Kakadu National Park but decided after hearing that Gunlom had just been opened we should visit. It is toward the south end of the park and the direction in which we were leaving the park.

Turning off the road we encountered quite a rough unsealed road and with the camper trailer in tow it took us quite a while to travel the 39km. Upon reaching our destination we found a beautiful waterfall cascading into quite a large billabong. We had already decided not to swim due to crocodile danger but found someone already in the water. Still, we all decided he must be crazy!

The Rockhole

Speaking to another camper in recent days he suggested we go to The Rockhole, only about 5km south of the Gunlom turnoff (although not signposted). The unsealed road was quite bumpy and the first time we have needed to engage 4WD in low gear.  The Rockhole is stunning, and because it is not signposted, we were the only ones there.  This made us very nervous about swimming and tempting as it was we chose to continue our journey to Edith Falls. This rockhole was probably my favourite spot in Kakadu. 

Edith Falls

Edith Falls is located in the northern end of Nitmiluk National Park and has a small campground with good facilities including hot showers and a small kiosk. We set up  camp and decided to walk out to the falls (1.2km) the next morning. We filled time playing bocce and cards as the sunset. It has been so warm at night the kids have packed their sleeping bags away and are just using their light rugs.

23 May
When we arrived we found a beautiful swimming hole that was very popular. We spent a couple of hours swimming in the currents, climbing over rocks and exploring the waterfalls. It was a very relaxing morning and very enjoyable. While the boys climbed waterfalls I relaxed with a book which ended up in the water and has now spent the week drying on the dashboard! The lower swimming hole which is next to the camp site was closed until they were sure there were no crocodiles. This is quite a large billabong which would make a beautiful spot to swim but better safe than sorry.

Edith Falls - Lower Pool

On returning to our campsite we played bocce and threw the frisbee. The rangers came by and told Thomas and Declan they could run under a sprinkler for as long as they like. No water restrictions up here! .

Kakadu National Park (cont.)

20 May

Rock Art at Nourlangie Rock

Today we experienced Nourlangie Rock, an area rich in aboriginal rock art. We decided with the weather being so hot that we should do all our hiking early and head back to the pool in the afternoon. There was a couple of ranger talks in the morning at different sites so we planned our walking around these. The first stop was Arnbangbang Gallery where one of the rangers talked to us about an aboriginal story painted on the rock. This picture was only painted in the 1960's by one of the last remaining members of the tribe that inhabited this area in an effort to pass down the stories. The tribe has since died out but the stories are being told by neighbouring tribes.

 Views to Arnem Land from Gunwardewarde Lookout

From here we walked up to Gunwardewarde Lookout and saw the area in Arnhem Land where Narmeggon the Lightning God (the small white figure in the top right of the painting with things that look like antennae coming from his head) lives.
After visiting the Arnbangbang Shelter and hearing a ranger talk about tools and implements the local aborigines used, we drove to Mirrey Lookout for a 360 degree view that overlooked the plains and all the way to Arnhem Land.

Nourlangie Rock from Mirrey Lookout

With the heat beginning to take its toll on the boys, we headed back to our campsite to have lunch and then spend a relaxing afternoon in the pool.

21 may

After arriving at the Kakadu Resort and starting to set up the camper trailer I discovered the back end of the car was unusually low and had to jack the trailer up to unhitch it from the car. After a call to the RACV and a trip in to the Jabiru mechanic it was discovered that our poly airbag suspension had deflated due to the springs pinching them. It seems the person who bought the airbags did not upgrade the springs before installing them.  The end result being we made some phone calls into Darwin and contacted a suspension specialist who was able to fix it for us today. This meant a 6 o’clock start for me to drive in to Darwin to have the car there for an 8:30 appointment. One and a half hours later the job was done, I picked up some supplies and returned the 240km to the resort to find Linda, Thomas and Declan doing homework. Did I get the easy job?

Kakadu National Park (cont.)

19 May

Ubirr Rock Art

We made our way out to Ubirr today to look at an impressive collection of Aboriginal rock art some of which is 5000 years old - it makes the collection of European art seem only very recent. This paint, using ochre rock that is ground into a powder and mixed with a tree resin, has proved to withstand the test of time -  although the aborigines did not paint all their pictures to last such a long time. Some of the pictures were painted to pass down advice to the other aboriginals about local places to find food. At most of the sites paintings have been painted over several times so there is quite a few layers of paintings. Also at this site there is a fantastic lookout along the circular route so as you inspect the art you gradually climb up a very large rock to see a magnificent view of the flood plains below.

The view at Ubirr

That afternoon we had booked an evening cruise on the Yellow Water wetlands which the East Alligator River feeds before it heads out to sea. The wildlife and scenery on show on the evening cruise that we were on was quite spectacular and our cruise guide was extremely knowledgeable. Among many other animals we got to see Saltwater crocodiles; birds such as the Jabiru, Egrets, Eagles, Kites, and Jesus Birds (so named because with their long toes they seem to walk on water). The sunset was amazing as you can see by the picture below. That night the resort was showing a movie and it happened to be Crocodile Dundee - a movie which neither Thomas or Declan had seen before. Both boys really enjoyed the movie and spotted the point in the movie which was filmed at Ubirr.

Sunset on the Yellow Water Cruise

Jumping Crocodiles and Kakadu National Park

18 May

Declan and I (Tim) got up early today and, with a few tips from one of our neighbours in the caravan park, embarked on another fishing expedition to one of the boat ramps near the East Wharf. Unfortunately once again, as with most of our fishing exploits, we returned empty handed but enjoyed the relaxing morning. 

Jumping Crocodiles

We returned to find Linda and Thomas well underway with the pack up and we were quickly on our way to Kakadu National Park. We decided to stop on the way to watch the Jumping Crocodiles where the Arnhem Highway crosses the Adelaide River. We boarded the two-storey boat (Adelaide River Queen) and were pretty soon watching saltwater crocodiles launching themselves out of the water to grab a pork chop off a lure. The crocodile in the picture is one they affectionately refer to as Agro, the biggest crocodile in this part of the river, who is about 6m long and about 40 years old. This picture was taken from the lower deck behind glass but you can also view them from the upper deck out in the open as well. While up there they also through off small pieces of pork where the whistling kites skillfully plucked them out of mid air with their feet, passed them to their mouths while still flying and returned to grab another piece. They are extremely acrobatic and manoeuvre very quickly in the air.

With the cruise finished and both Thomas and Declan complaining about being hungry, we decided to retrace our steps for about 3km to stop and have lunch at Windows on the Wetlands - a very informative and interactive display giving information about the flora and fauna living in the local wetlands.

From there we made the final stretch of the journey in to Kakadu National Park and called into the Bowali Information Centre to buy the obligatory 2 week pass and find out information on which of the sights were open. It seems as though delaying our trip here has worked as more of the sights are now open and the ranger talks have started as well.

Darwin

16 May
As you may well have realised our inital plan of turning off to Kakadu National Park, Darwin and then Litchfield National Park before returning to Katherine has changed due to a few of the attractions in Kakadu being closed due the late rains. We have revised our plans to look at Litchfield, then to Darwin and Kakadu before returning to Katherine. This meant arriving at Kakadu a little bit later and hopefully seeing some extra sights.
On leaving Litchfield National Park we decided to take the unsealed road via Berry Springs to Darwin. This road was fairly corrugated with some deep water ruts that needed to be taken slowly. It is shorter in distance but probably takes a little bit longer to travel. The boys were looking forward to a swim at Berry Springs but were disappointed to find that it too was closed because of the recent rains.
Pushing on to Darwin we found a caravan park in Berrimah, a suburb of Darwin that is fairly close to the city centre, and after setting up camp decided to look around in the city. Darwin has changed quite a bit in the last 5 years or so since I was there and it now boasts a few high rise buildings not just the backpackers hostels and pubs that seemed to line the main street.
Our first point of call was to see the tunnels that were built as an oil storage device during WW2. These tunnels were built to protect Darwins oil storage from air attack during the war but by the time they were finished the war was over and they have never been used for this purpose. There are 2 tunnels open and are now house over 100 wartime photos.

Aquascene

We then headed to Aquascene, a fish feeding business that allows you to feed the wild fish that come in from Darwin harbour every day to be fed by the public. This business has been running for about 50 years and all sorts of fish from Catfish, flathead, mackeral, barramundi and rays can be seen in the same area. They give you bread to feed the fish and provide information about the different species as they appear. Declan and Thomas both enjoyed patting some of the fish as they fed them.






17 May
After a slow start to the morning Declan and I decided to go fishing but by the time we were organised we had struck low tide and had trouble finding a place to fish (due to the 8m tidal variation in Darwin). We managed to find a jetty near a marina and fished for a couple of hours without luck.
As we had been enduring a small water leak in the camper trailer I took the opportunity of being in a large city to find a new piece of hose a repair it. This was not as easy as expected and a few hours later I managed to get the job done while Linda found a supermarket and replenished supplies.
 With most of the day gone we decided to spend the rest of it in the pool just relaxing and enjoying doing nothing.